Antequera, Andalucia, Spain - An Ancient City

The very name, Antequera, suggests, in English, anThe entire collection is from the churches in the town
ancient place due to the name's similarity with theand fills the vast majority of the imposing and
English word antique. In fact antique, ancient or old hasimpressive Palace of Najera in which the museum is
nothing to do with the origin of the name. The townhoused. Where did the intervening 1400 years go, what
was first named by the Romans, Antikaria and later byabout the Visigoths and Moors? For that matter what
the Moors, Medina Antaqira. Perhaps this is the firsthappened between 1800 BC and 100 AD? El Efebo
disappointment when visiting this town that receivesstands there as a solitary monument, caught in a time
such great revues in any information supplied by thewarp with no discernible past or future.
Andalucian tourist office.It is obvious that tracing Antequera's heritage is going
When you look closely at the information you realiseto be more difficult than first thought. A visit to the
that there is not that much there. The dolmens, someoldest part of the town may provide some clues.
of the finest in the Iberian peninsula, rate a mention, asOverlooking Antequera is the 13th Century Moorish
does the nearby limestone massif called El Torcal, butAlcazaba and Homenaje tower. Both are reached via
the town itself receives little attention. There had to bethe gate called the Arch of Giants, built in 1585, so
a reason for this omission. Like any other placenamed because at one time the arch had a huge
Antequera had to have a past, and a reason for beingstatue perched on top of which only the feet now
where it is.remain. Nearby is the recently excavated Roman bath
A glance at a map of Andalucia will show you thathouse. As far as Roman and Moorish remains go, that
Antequera is situated on a rock buttress north ofis about it, but even that is instructive. It is likely that the
Malaga at a crossroads between the natural routestown under the Romans and Moors was very small
from Malaga to Cordoba and Seville to Granada. Theand centred on the hill on which the remains sit with
surrounding valley of the Guadalhorce river is one ofvillas and farms scattered around the valley, its main
the most fertile areas in Andalucia. It's situation ispurpose would have been to provide a focal point for
probably the reason for it's existence, even in 2500 BCthe market. The Moors had been in occupation for
when La Menga, the first of the three great dolmenssome five hundred years before they felt sufficiently
were built, there was a trading network through thethreatened by the Christian kings to build a small
region consisting of metallic ores from the Sevillefortress.
region and copper and bronze tools and weaponsFrom the fortress you can see over the whole of
from the Almeria area. Food cultivated in the valleyAntequera. Almost within stones throw of the walls
travelled in all directions to support other communities.are 12 convents, 24 churches and a dozen palaces, all
When La Menga was filled to capacity with over 500built in the styles known as Renaissance (15th and 16th
bodies, the bronze age communities built Viera in aboutcenturies) and Baroque (17th and 18th Centuries). This
2000 BC and then Romeral around 1800 BC.again tells us much. Following the taking of the town by
Having established the reason why the town is whereDon Fernando in 1410 the wealth generated by the
it is a visit to the museum should have filled in thetrade through the town attracted the rapacious
historical gap between 2500 BC and today. Unusuallyattention of the church and then the nobility who all built
for Spain there is an admission fee of 3 Euros, theto impress each other and, at the same time, subdue
entrance is through a huge door where you ring thethe serfs. The small houses crowded round these fine
bell to gain entry and you have to be accompanied bybuildings all date from this period. In typical Christian
a guide (English speaking) throughout your visit. Thismanner, most traces of previous civilisations were
augured well, great things must be hidden here. Theeradicated, thereby explaining the lack of remains
first exhibit is that of a bronze statue of a teenagetoday. A wonderful remnant of the church's methods
servant boy. A farmer found this first century ADof domination by fear lies in the names of two streets,
work of art, now called El Efebo de Antequera, in 1955.Calle Del Infierno running parallel to the Calle Purgatorio.
It is thought to have been taken from a Roman villaA more lasting means of control is through the 19
discovered near Antequera a few years ago that isfraternities in the town. Fraternities are religious bodies
still being excavated. El Efebo has been exhibitedthat also wield great political power and possess
around Europe as an outstanding piece of Roman art.enormous wealth. Membership is exclusive and passed
The guide then takes you to the next section, a displayfrom father to son. Their wealth is paraded annually
of paintings, figures, crosses, and vestments datingduring the religious processions. A silver cross, owned
from the 16th Century to the present day and still usedby one such fraternity, on display in the museum, takes
in the Santa Semana street processions at Easter.90 men to carry.