Corfu History - They Came, They Saw, They Conquered

Civil war on Corcyra followed the island's aristocratspossession of Byzantium until 1204, which saw the fall
(favouring Corinth and Sparta) and its democratsof Constantinople. This great capital was the cradle of
(siding with Athens). After much bloodshed, CorcyraOrthodoxy, and the fall of `The City' is still considered
fell to the Lacedaemonian general, Kleonymos, inby Greeks to be, after the Crucifixion, the darkest day
303BC; then, in 301BC, to Agathokles, Tyrant ofin history. Life between the 4th and 13th centuries was
Syracuse, and to Ptolemy in 284BC. A pattern was- here as in most of Europe - nasty, brutal and short,
emerging in this corner of the Ionian Sea: the rich pearlwith a series of Pythonesque barbarians storming the
that was Corfu -rich for strategic purposes as well astwin peaks. The Vandals sacked the island in 455,
for its natural resources - would be snatched byfollowed by the Goths in 550; the Saracens attacked
successive waves of invaders. Corfiot history, fromrepeatedly between the 7th and 11th centuries. In 1081
the 3rd century BC on, may be seen as a revolvingthe island was taken by the Normans, under Robert
door of European predation, though those who cameGuiscard; they were subsequently defeated by the
to plunder invariably left something of value in theirVenetians, but then returned under Bohemond,
wake.Robert's son, only to be defeated by the Byzantines...
Distinguishing between pirates and protectors mustto return again under Robert's nephew, Roger II of
have proved difficult for the Corfiots, since a veritableSicily! No wonder the islanders finally took to the
parade of both were subsequently to descend uponheights of the town and erected strong walls.
the island. A glance at a map hints at the reason, andFor three weeks during 1203, the bays were filled with
shows a remarkable geographic similarity to the `greatthe vast fleet of the Fourth Crusade, which weighed
boot' of Italy-Corfu resembles a little boot, its ankleanchor here on its way to sack Constantinople. It was
symbolically flexed back to kick something away. Thean awesome display, but for once the fleet had their
ancients saw the island as a harp or scythe shape,sights on a richer trophy than the little Ionian isle.
and named it accordingly, but the modern nameMuch of what we regard today as 'Corfiot' - the Old
comes from the Greek word korifon, after the pair ofand New Fortresses, the narrow streets (kantounia)
summits now crowned by the Old and Newand their elegant residences, the lovely cobbled
Fortresses.squares and Italianate churches, the Roman Catholic
The Romans, provoked beyond endurance by attackscathedral, the elaborately decorated government
on their mariners by Illyrian pirates, declared war onbuildings - is, in fact, Venetian.
them in around 229BC. The Illyrians, in turn, laid siege toOf all the conquerors and administrators, pirates and
Corfu, but the island was immediately liberated byprotectors that Corfu has seen, none left such an
Caius Fulvius, and placed itself willingly under theimpression as The Most Serene Republic. The
protection of its powerful neighbour. The RomansVenetians, who occupied Corfu for a mere 400 years
would stay on for the next five centuries, and some(compared with the millennium of Byzantine and
illustrious Italians visited Corcyra: Cicero and Cato; MarcFrankish domination), left a distinctive mark on the
Antony and Octavia; Agrippina and her children, Juliaisland's skyline, its social organization, its forms of
and Caligula.cultural expression - even its cuisine - that remains to
In 40 AD two disciples of St Paul, saints Jason andthis day. One may still sit on the Spianada, a lovely
Sosipater, brought Christianity to Corfu and establishedtown green originally cleared to give a free field for
the island's first church, St Stephen's - which explainsVenetian artillery, dining on Venetian delicacies in the
the plethora of modern place names reading Aghios orcompany of a direct descendant of someone listed
San (Saint) Stefanos around the island.among the `first families' in the Venetian Libro d'Oro
Following the splitting of the Roman Empire byand be serenaded by musicians singing Venetian
Diocletian late in the 3rd century into western andKandades. It is as though the Serenis sima (the 'Most
eastern portions - the latter to become Byzantium -Serene' republic) has only recently - and temporarily -
Corfu's regime changed. It was to remain, on and off, adeparted.