Discovering the Hidden Tuscany: Lower Maremma and the City of Tufa

The Maremma is a vast area covering part ofmonumental sculptural inspired at the Tarots which
southern Tuscany, notably the province of Grosseto,took the artist Niki de Saint Phalle 20 years of work. If
and a small part of northern Latium (Lazio). This wasyou are lucky enough and you happen to visit Capalbio
once the homeland of the Etruscans, the mysteriousduring the second week of september, you will have
civilization which dominated central Italy before thethe chance to see many Italian celebrities hanging
emergence of the Roman Empire and whose legacyaround and you can also attend the traditional wild
can be explored throughout the area.boar festival. During other periods of the year, you can
The Maremma can be divided into the Alta Maremmaalways pay a visit to the Pieve di San Nicola, the
(upper or northern Maremma), and Bassa MaremmaCollachini Palace or the Vulci National Museum in
(lower or southern Maremma).The Alta Maremmaneraby Canino.
exteds from Grosseto northwards to Cecina RiverLeaving the coast, the road travels deep into the hills
just south of Livorno while the lower Maremmaof the Marrema with the towns of Pitigliano, Sorano
extends along the Albegna and Ombrone rivers downand Sovana forming a triangle enclosing the protected
the coast to the Argentario and beyond, The latter isarea known as "City of Tufa" (from the volcanic rock
the least populated area of mainland Italy and, despiteused for centuries as building material). You will almost
being a great destination for the historian, nature-lovercertainly fall in love with Pitigliano as soon as you will
and sun-worshipper alike, it is still remarkably off thehave the chance to lay your eyes on it. Build on a
beaten track.stone spur in a wild landscape, Pitigliano blends
The charm of the Maremma is enriched by itsperfectly into the rock. From its position high above the
livestock-raising traditions. The 'butteri', skilful cowboys,lush valleys and twin rivers, Pitigliano affords stunning
were talented enough to beat Buffalo Bill in 1911 whenviews, ones which have been enjoyed for many
he challenged them to a contest at breaking colts. Thecenturies as the local Roman and Etruscan ruins are
Maremman cattle-rearers still remain proud of thistestament to. The undeniable influence of the Jewish
victory and hand down their skills from father to son.community, which dates back to the 15th century, is still
Leaving behind the small village of Talamone, the Viavery evident in the local cuisine.
Aurelia Etrusca leads to the mouth of the AlbegnaNorthwest of Pitigliano you will find Sovana, another
river and to the Tombolo di Giannella, a sandspit whichimportant Etruscan town dating back to the 7th
joins Monte Argentario, once an island, to the mainland.century BC or even earlier. The ancient capital of this
The sea currents have built a second sandspit, orpart of the Maremma and once a rival to Siena,
"tombolo" between the "island" and the mainland thusSovana is now a little village with ancient ruins and
forming a large lagoon, which is known as the LagunaRomanesque architecture. North of the town is the
di Ortobello,. The scenery of the Monte Argentario,Etruscan Necropolis containing over 100 tombs, many
which reaches 635 metres at its highest point isof which can be explored, beginning with the most
dramatic, with headlands, bays and shingle beaches.spectacular of them all, the famous Tomba del Sileno.
The town of Orbetello is set right in the middle of theJust a few miles down the road from Sovana,
lagoon by the same name and is linked to MonteSaturnia is another stunning place to visit. This little
Argentario through a road built over an artificial bankvillage is filled with traces from eras dating back to the
that dividing the lagoon into two stretches of waterRomans, as well as a handful of absolutely
(respectively called the Eastern Lagoon and Westernmouth-watering restaurants. If you would like to indulge
Lagoon). Orbetello is a lively and busy town whosein a little pampering, the local spa complex which grew
principal resource has always been fishing. Localup around the sulphur springs, waterfalls and streams
seafood is regarded as the best in the whole districtis a magnificent place to visit. The Etruscans who built
so if you happen to be there around lunch time, takethe town are thought to have used these bubbling
your chance to visit one of the many restaurantsturquoise waters in their religious ceremonies.
serving the local seafood specialties.This article is part of a series meant to describe some
Before heading inland to explore the main Etruscanstravel itineraries in the lesser known areas of Tuscany.
centres, it is worth visiting the hill-village of Capalbio,You can find similar articles covering the Casentino
with its perfectly intact medieval centre. Capalbio isValley, Lunigiana and the smaller islands of the Tuscan
also know for a rather unusual attractions known asArchipelago.
the Tarot Gardenan, an artistic park composed by