Greece Delphi - Center of the World

When Zeus sent two eagles to find the centre of thewhich dates back to the 1860s and is now run by
Earth, the birds met over Delphi, thus marking the sitefourth-generation proprietor Thanasis Kamvysis, and
as the omphalos, or 'navel' of the world. It was here,welcomes you with an atmosphere redolent with the
amidst the precipitous cliffs and plunging gorgessalty tales of sea captains who once swapped
between Mt Parnassus and the Gulf of Itea, that theadventures by the fire. You can choose to dine
cult of Apollo was established, with devotees arrivingbetween two neighbouring eateries, the humble fish
from far and wide to seek the advice of the oracle oftaverna Tassos, with its delicious langoustines, or the
Delphi. At the sanctuary of Athena Pronaia is one ofmore upmarket Maritsa, Galaxidi's version of Lloyds of
the great masterpieces of ancient architecture, theLondon, where shipbuilders, owners and captains
circular Tholos temple, dating from the 4th century BC.would congregate to conduct business and socialize.
As you walk up the sacred way to the great TempleFor 20 years Maritsa has been serving up her
of Apollo, it is easy to imagine the proverbs oncespecialty chicken and courgette pies, and shrimp with
inscribed upon it, including `know thyself and 'nothing inorzo baked in clay, together with her signature mussels
excess', and the countless devotional statues thatwith rice. Further along diners can stop in for a drink at
once stood here. Admire the reconstructed TreasuryYdrohos, or continue to the second port where Liotrivi,
of the Athenians nearby, and continue up the hillside toa former olive press has been converted into a cafe
the impressive stadium and theatre. Highlights ofand gallery exhibiting artist-owner Minas's paintings of
Delphi's Archaeological Museum include thethe local landscape. Visit goldsmith Cosmas Dimitriadis's
extraordinary bronze charioteer, the enigmatic 'Columnjewelry shop for designs passed down from his father
of the Dancers', carvings from the Siphnian Treasury,and grandfather, as well as daughter Arianna's more
and the sculpture of the youth Antinoos.contemporary pieces. Under Dimitriadis's tenure as
Your next destination is the enchanting seaside townpresident of the town's cultural foundation, the last
of Galaxidi, only half an hour away. Along the steep,windmill visible on the hill overlooking Galaxidi has been
zig-zag road you'll pass through the largest oliverestored and converted into a museum on the history
plantation in Greece. Sheltered in the Bay of Krisa, withof breadmaking.
lovely views of snowy Mt Parnassus, the town is fullChrisoula and Kostas Papalexi are the gracious
of beautiful 19th-century neoclassical buildings. Theproprietors of Hotel Ganimede, a nine-room budget
Maritime Museum documents the community's glorypension occupying a newly renovated 19thcentury
days after the War of Independence, in which thehouse that in its former life belonged to a sea captain.
Galaxidiotes made a significant contribution in the formThe cozy rooms are furnished with wrought-iron beds,
of their formidable naval power. There is a splendidand topped with high wooden ceilings. Sumptuous
collection of paintings of Galaxidis ships from the 19thbreakfasts of fresh juice, home-made jam, cake,
and 20th centuries, along with wooden figureheads,chutney, and anything else your heart might desire are
nautical equipment, and local antiquities. The transitionserved in the garden. Those undefeated by the
from sail to steam signalled the end of Galaxidi'sGanimede breakfast experience should head for
fortunes, and the town subsequently slid into economicnearby Nikotakis and its decadent local pastries.
decline.Take a Tour to Delphi, learn more about the Delphic
A leisurely stroll along the harbour front will acquaintOracle and choose among the Hotels in Delphi to
you with the local scene. Begin at Cafe Themistoklis,spend the night.