| Our understanding of the ancient kitchen is largely | | | | of the hearth. The literary sources refer to this type of |
| based on evidence from the town houses in Pompeii. | | | | oven as either testum or clibanus. They were |
| Its dominant feature is the hearth, which in more | | | | dome-shaped with a small hole in the top and a |
| primitive cultures was at ground level but later became | | | | projecting flange that seems to have been used to |
| a raised platform of masonry at a convenient height. In | | | | hold the coals, and they were made of bronze, iron or |
| one house the platform extends from wall to wall and | | | | a coarse earthenware. Archaeological finds show that |
| has four arches for storage of charcoal beneath. | | | | large amounts of grog (sand, stone and broken pot) |
| These have often been interpreted as ovens but it is | | | | were mixed with the clay to enable it to withstand the |
| clear that the oven stood separately from the hearth | | | | thermal shock of direct contact with the fire. |
| and was often outside, especially as it was fired with | | | | In use the testum is suspended over the fire until very |
| wood. | | | | hot, and then the hearth is cleaned. The bread or cake |
| The key to this raised platform is that charcoal, without | | | | was placed directly on the hearth and the testum |
| excessive fumes, was used indoors. A gridiron was | | | | placed over it. Hot coals were heaped around and on |
| placed over the coals to take the cooking pots. | | | | top of the testum before the baking process began. |
| Experiments I have done using charcoal on a masonry | | | | Using equipment based on archaeological finds, I have |
| platform built for the purpose have proved very | | | | found that a baking temperature of 375-400 °F |
| illuminating. We all know how to barbecue: the | | | | (190-200 0C) is easily maintained, and I have produced |
| technique is very simple. However, the Romans would | | | | some very successful bread and cakes. It is apparent |
| not have wasted so much of the heat generated as | | | | that these ovens were used at a domestic level for |
| we do. A charcoal fire has an extended life well | | | | baking honey cheesecakes, which are best served |
| beyond usual barbecue needs. When the ashes are | | | | warm. The accumulated hot ashes from a day's |
| well burnt and apparently exhausted, the heat | | | | cooking are the ideal medium for the baking process, |
| generated and stored in the platform can maintain a | | | | whereby no heat at all is wasted. |
| simmer for an extended period while a fresh fire is | | | | Placed on top of a dish of similar material, testa could |
| started, moving from one side to the other, for frying | | | | be used for cooking moist dishes such as meat or fish. |
| and bringing to the boil. Using this technique all the basic | | | | The dish would stand directly on the hearth, with the |
| methods of cooking for which we now use a gas or | | | | testum over the food, and the coals would be pushed |
| electric bob can be performed. The technique is largely | | | | up against the sides and on the flange just as for |
| dependent on understanding the quality of heat | | | | baking. Apicius gives instructions for just such a |
| generated and involves a good deal of waiting around | | | | method when he tells the reader to cook kidneys in a |
| for the fire to be ready for a particular cooking | | | | clibanus: see the recipe for Barley Rolls for a |
| method. | | | | discussion on alternative baking covers. |
| Many recipes have been reproduced using authentic | | | | Some very sophisticated pieces of equipment have |
| ceramic pots and metal cooking vessels. Bronze pots | | | | been unearthed at Pompeii. It seems the Roman cook |
| have been found in situ in the house of the Vettii in | | | | had access to such items as fish kettles, moulds in the |
| Pompeii, and Roman soldiers have been found buried | | | | shape of suckling pigs and hare, and portable braziers |
| with their own personal bronze cooking pot. Cheaper | | | | that could cook and keep dishes hot in the dining room. |
| earthenware vessels had a shorter life-span and were | | | | Other kitchen furniture include fixed stone pillars which |
| difficult to keep clean as they were unglazed. In | | | | served as the base for a wooden table and kitchen |
| Apicius the cook often calls for a new pot, implying | | | | sinks, often supplied with hot water. In a larger kitchen |
| that residues from previous dishes could taint some | | | | the ubiquitous amphora stood against the wall to store |
| foods. Lead vessels existed, strange as that may | | | | wine and fish sauce. Large mortaria, suspended on |
| seem, and appear to have been used when boiling | | | | tripods, were used to mix the various sauces. The |
| down must (grape juice) into syrups for sweetening | | | | Roman mortarium was a large shallow vessel with grit |
| and colouring. Pliny the Elder actually tells us that they | | | | embedded in the clay to aid the break-up of spices. A |
| liked the particular flavour imparted by lead! | | | | mortar is essential for reproducing Greek and Roman |
| Roman ovens were dome-shaped and could be built | | | | food. Pounding and pureeing would have been a task |
| into an outer wall. Larger ovens could be free-standing, | | | | for a menial household slave in an ancient kitchen and |
| made of brick and shaped like a beehive. Those found | | | | would have taken hours of effort. If you do not have a |
| at Pompeii are elaborate structures that could hold | | | | slave to hand, then I suggest you invest in a food |
| many loaves at once. Ovens inside the kitchen were | | | | processor at once! |
| charcoal-fired and either free-standing or used on top | | | | |