How to Figure the Number of Rings Needed to Make a Byzantine Necklace

Byzantine is the most popular, most recognizedrings do you need to weave an inch of chain"? To
weave in chainmaille jewelry. There are numerousfigure this out you have to actually weave an inch of
places on the internet to find patterns, but most peoplethe chain then count them. Fortunately, this step has
have a hard time figuring out which size to use andalready been done for you.
how many rings they'll need. It doesn't help that soSo now we're down to simple math. The ideal ring size
many of the older patterns were written long agofor Byzantine in 22 gauge is 2.25mm i.d. and you need
when chainmakers used to make their own rings using40 rings to make an inch of chain. If you want a 20
the cut off shank of a screw driver or a woodeninch necklace, the formula would look like this: 20
dowel that actually shrank a little bit every time they(inches of chain) x 40 (rings per inch (rpi)) = 800 22ga
used it. Then they would lay their ring down on a ruler2.25mm rings.
and pick the closest fraction as the size.To move up a gauge to 20, the ideal ring size is
Today rings are made with a little more precision.2.75mm i.d. and the rpi is 33. Again, I am using a 20 inch
Specialized mandrels are machine ground to exactchain as my example. 20 x 33 = 660 20ga/2.75mm
millimeters. Digital calipers will give you an exactrings.
reading. High quality saw cut rings are sold by the troyIf you want to use 18 gauge wire, you will want to
ounce in hundreds of sizes. So many sizes, in fact, thatorder 3.5mm i.d. rings, and you'll need 26 rings per inch.
beginners are routinely confused by all of the choices,20 x 26 = 520 18ga/3.5mm rings.
especially if they are trying to convert from theThe most popular size of wire for Byzantine is 16
fractions of inches that their pattern calls for to thegauge and 4.5mm i.d. is the perfect size ring. In this size,
millimeter sizes that most chainmaille ring companiesyou need 20 rings per inch: 20 (chain length) x 20 (rings
use.per inch) = 400 16ga/4.5mm rings.
After lots of testing, the ideal sizes for the ByzantineWith 14 gauge wire, you move up to 5.5mm i.d. rings,
Weave were worked out. Once you decide whichand 16 rings per inch. 20 x 16 = 320 14ga/5.5mm rings.
gauge of wire you want to work with, you can selectKeep in mind that this does not take the length of the
the correct ring size, based on theseclasp into consideration. You should measure it and
recommendations. But how many to buy? To answersubtract that number from the length of you chain. Or
that, you need a few more pieces of information, oneleave it for a margin of error in case you lose a ring or
that only you can supply: How long do you want yourtwo.
chain? The next step in the formula is "How many