I Love Touring Italy - Eastern Liguria

If you are looking for a European tourist destination,Sixteenth and Seventeenth Century Sanctuary of
consider the Liguria region of northern Italy, commonlyNostra Signora di Montallegro (Our Lady of
known as the Italian Riviera. This thin strip of land liesMontallegro), and the Thirteenth Century Monastery of
on the Ligurian Sea, not far from Monaco and theValle Christi, abandoned for more than four centuries
French Riviera. While Liguria is by no meansdue to pirates. Visit the local castles that were built to
undiscovered, its crowds are much smaller than thosedefend against pirates. For a different view of life visit
next door. There are many little towns or villages, andthe Museo del Pizzo a Tombolo (Bobbin Lace Museum
one international port city almost smack dab in theof Rapallo).
center of the coast. This article explores Liguria eastChiavari, population about thirty thousand, is a charming
of Genoa, or as the locals call it, Riviera di Levanteseaside resort situated in a fertile plain at the mouth of
(The Riviera of the Rising Sun.) Be sure to read thethe Entella. Near the station, at the end of a beautiful
other articles in this series: western Liguria, Genoa, andavenue of palms, stands the Seventeenth Century
Cinque Terre, five little seaside villages that just mightCathedral. Morning markets are held on the Piazza
steal your heart.Mazzini in the town center, dominated by the Palace of
We start our tour just east of Genoa at the seasideJustice, to the rear is the Sixteenth Century Citadel
town of Nervi. We continue southeast down the coastTower.
to the Portofino Promontory and the towns ofMoneglia, population about twenty-seven hundred, is a
Camogli, Santa Margherita Ligure, and Portofino. Thenquiet resort town that is less expensive than its
it's back to the main coast and several destinations:better-known neighbors. It hosts the Niccolo Paganini
Rapallo, Chiavari, Moneglia, La Spezia, Portovenere, andInternational Guitar Competition. Moneglia is linked to the
finally Lerici.outside world by a long series of old tunnels. With a
The little town of Nervi near Genoa has been a resortlittle bad luck you can easily be stopped for a quarter
for well over one hundred years. Swimming there ishour before the light turns green. Imagine if it were
not recommended because of Genoa's pollution. Youmore popular.
may want to visit in July when Nervi hosts theYou may decide to bypass La Spezia, population
International Ballet Festival. Nervi's highlight is itsninety-five thousand, because of its size. You shouldn't.
mile-long (1.5 kilometer) Passeggiata (Promenade) AnitaFor example, its Thirteenth Century Abbey Church of
Garibaldi named for the wife and comrade-in-arms ofSanta Maria Assunta (Our Lady of the Assumption)
Italian revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi, founder of thehas quite a collection of artwork, often originating in
modern Italian state. I'll tell you a bit more about thisother churches demolished over the years. La Spezia
great promenade, but first let's talk about Madameis home to at least eight museums ranging from the
Garibaldi. She was born in pre-independence Brazil to aMuseo Tecnico Navale (Technical Naval Museum) to
poor family and raised by a single mother. She marriedthe Centro Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, the
at age 14. It is said that when Garibaldi first laid eyesMuseum of Modern and Contemporary Art, often
on her he could only whisper, "You must be mine." Andknown by its Italian acronym CAMeC. When you think
she was. She taught the sailor Guiseppe about theyou're done museum hopping be sure to visit the
gaucho culture of her homeland and fought by his siderecently restored Castello di San Giorgio (Saint George
in many battles. The couple had four children and sheCastle) with its Museo del Castello that houses Roman
died where carrying their fifth child several yearsand pre-Roman artifacts.
before the independence of Italy. In 1860, whenPortovenere, population four thousand, sits at the end
Garibaldi rode his horse to greet Victor Emanuel II asof a peninsula and has seen its share of warfare over
King of a United Italy, he wore Anita's striped scarfthe centuries. Make sure to see the Romanesque
over his gray South American poncho.Eleventh Century Basilica of Saint Lawrence, named
The rock hewn mile-long (1.5 kilometer) Passeggiatafor a Saint burned alive on a gridiron for not
(Promenade) Anita Garibaldi is full of palm and orangesurrendering the church's treasures. This basilica was
trees in its 300 acre (120 hectare) park. Make sure toprobably built over the ruins of an ancient temple
see the Parco Villa Grimaldi with its magnificentdedicated to the Roman god Jupiter. The Gothic
collection of roses. And don't forget Anita Garibaldi.Church of Saint Peter, built over a pre-existing Fifth
Camogli, population about five thousand, is a beautifulCentury Palaeo-Chrisitian Church, was consecrated
harbor community. Its name carries two meanings,just before the end of the Twelfth Century. That's the
"houses close together," and "houses of wives," as theold part. The new part was constructed a century
husbands were usually off fishing. Its major touristlater. The Grotto Arpaia, also known as Byron's Grotto,
attraction is the annual fish fry and festival during themarks the point where the English poet Lord Byron
second weekend of May. Saturday they bless the fishswam across the Gulf of La Spezia to visit his friend
with bonfires and fireworks. Sunday they fry them inand fellow poet, Percy Bysshe Shelley. Don't try it
the world's largest skillet more than 12 feet (about fouryourself unless you are an excellent swimmer, and be
meters) in diameter. Camogli is also home to the C.ready to dodge boat traffic. But you can come here
Colombo nautical institute named for you know whom.for inspiration as Lord Byron did.
You may also want to visit the nearby villages of SanLerici, population about eleven thousand, marks the end
Rocco, San Niccolo, and Punta Chiappa.of our Riviera di Levante tour. It also marked the end
Santa Margherita Ligure, population about ten thousand,of the English poet Shelley who drowned in the Bay of
is an old, upscale resort town. There's a SixteenthSpezia while returning to his beloved Lerici. He actually
Century castle, and a few churches and villas to visit. Iflived in the nearby village of San Terenzo. The Golfo di
you have the money you can stay in a top of the lineLerici was renamed Golfo dei Poeti in honor of these
hotel, costing a lot less than in neighboring Portofino.two great English poets. Make sure to see the
According to the famous Roman writer Pliny the ElderThirteenth Century Castello di Lerici (Lerici Castle) that
the Romans founded Portofino and named it Portuscommanded the bay for centuries and now hosts a
Delphini, or Port of the Dolphin, because of thepaleontology museum.
numerous dolphins in the nearby waters. Portofino isWhat about food? Liguria has quite a seacoast and
such a famous tourist attraction that it has beenyou won't have to look very far to find a seafood
recreated, so to speak, in Japan and at the Portofinorestaurant. One favorite is anchovies, eaten as
Bay Resort in Orlando, Florida. The real thing is knownantipasto or as a main dish. Popular fish include
to be quite pricey.Swordfish, Tuna, Sardines, and Sea Bass.
Portofino, population about five hundred, not countingLet's suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with
the very numerous tourists is considered one the mostZuppa di Pesce (Fish Soup). Then try Pescato del
beautiful Mediterranean ports. Be sure to see theGiorne à la Mode Ligure (Catch of the day,
Castello di San Giorgio (Saint George Castle) oldLiguria style - with Potatoes, Olives, and Pine Nuts.) For
enough to be restored in the Sixteenth Century, with itsdessert indulge yourself with Canestrelli, literally little
lovely gardens, views and exhibit showing famousboxes (Doughnuts with Confectioners Sugar.) Be sure
visitors including Clark Gable, Marilyn Monroe, andto increase your dining pleasure by including local wines
Prince Rainier at play. When you have seen enough ofwith your meal.
these pictures walk out to the lighthouse and viewWe'll conclude with a quick look at Liguria wine. Liguria
Portofino's villas from afar. Stop in for a coffee anddoesn't have a lot of room for wine grapes. It ranks
watch the fishing boats and ferries go by. Then walk19th among the 20 Italian regions for the acreage
or ferry to the Tenth-Eleventh Century Abbazia di Sandevoted to wine grapes and for total annual wine
Fruttuoso now a conservation site that occasionallyproduction. About 34% of its wine is red or
has exhibits.rosé, leaving 66% white. The region produces
Portofino and its surroundings are safeguarded by theeight DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di
Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino ( RegionalOrigine Controllata, which may be translated as
Natural Park of Portofino) and by the Area MarinaDenomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a
Protetta di Portofino (Protected Marine Area ofhigh-quality wine. About 14% of Ligurian wine carries
Portofino). Visit them both to enjoy the local flora andthe DOC designation.
fauna on land and on sea.There are three DOC wines in the Riviera di Levante
Rapallo, population about thirty thousand, was initiallyregion, not counting Cinque Terre to be discussed in a
settled in the Eighth Century B.C. perhaps by theseparate article. The Golfo del Tigullio DOC is
Greeks and perhaps by the Etruscans. During Worldproduced near Portofino from a wide variety of local
War I it hosted an important conference and later wasgrapes in a wide variety of styles. The dry Colli di Luni
the site of two peace treaties including theDOC is produced both in Liguria near La Spezia and in
Russian-German Treaty of Rapallo in 1922. We allneighboring Tuscany in several styles from the white
know how well that worked out. Rapallo was once aVermentino grape, the red Sangiovese grape, and
major resort area but has not kept up with the times.several local grapes. The Colline di Levanto DOC is a
Be sure to visit the Eleventh Century Cathedral ofdry white or red wine produced from the white
Santi Gervasio e Protasio with a great bell tower andVermentino grape, the red Sangiovese grape, and
interesting paintings. The Church of Santo Stefano, theseveral local grapes. Liguria exports very little wine to
first parish church in Rapallo, is the oldest building inNorth America so you may have to go there to taste
town. It was built before the Eleventh Century. Otherthe wines. To tell you the truth, there are many better
churches include the Church of San Francesco, thereasons for visiting this lovely area.
Sixteenth Century Church of St. Francis of Assisi, the