| 420 kilometres north of the Costa del Sol, in | | | | When wandering around Merida it is impossible not to |
| Extremadura, is the small town of Merida. It is too far | | | | notice other examples of Roman architecture. There is |
| for a day trip from the Costa del Sol and in any case | | | | an arch, still in use, monumental aqueducts, bath houses |
| there is far too much to see in one day so try for one | | | | unearthed beneath demolished buildings from a later |
| of the special offers at the Medea Melia Tryp which is | | | | era and many examples of original walls still used in |
| about 20 minutes walk from the centre of the town. | | | | current buildings. |
| Merida is remarkable in that its history dates back to | | | | Breathtaking it may be but you still have to keep body |
| Roman times and being in a remote, less well-known | | | | and soul together. Fortunately there is no shortage of |
| part of Spain, has not been developed to any great | | | | watering holes. Menu del Dia is definitely the way to go |
| extent. Consequently there are still many traces of | | | | here and if you get the chance try the ham. |
| what was once one of the most important Roman | | | | Extremadurans claim their ham is superior to Serrano, |
| and Islamic cities in the peninsula. | | | | and they are right. |
| Augusta Emerita was founded in 25 BC for retired | | | | A favourite form of entertainment during Roman times |
| Italian soldiers who had fought in the Cantabrian war. It | | | | took place at the Hippodrome or circus. The one at |
| was also intended to be the capital of the recently (27 | | | | Merida is one of only three known in Spain, the other |
| BC) created province of Lusitania. Its location made it a | | | | two are at Toledo and Tarragona. Built in an oval |
| communications centre where roads from Lisbon | | | | shape, over 400 metres long and 150 metres wide, the |
| (Olisipo), Astorga (Asturica), Toledo (Toletum), Cordoba | | | | Merida circus could seat 30,000 people, almost the |
| (Corduba) and Seville (Hispalis) all met. | | | | entire population. They were treated to chariot races, |
| The Medea Hotel is an excellent place to start an | | | | seven laps with no rules other than the winner was |
| exploration of Augusta Emerita. Even the hotel itself is | | | | the first across the finishing line. Champions were |
| built in a 'Roman amphitheatre' style and is alongside | | | | venerated, there were no prizes for coming second |
| one of the main Roman roads that led to the city | | | | and accidents were common. The chariots were as |
| allowing us to march smartly down to the Roman | | | | light as possible and pulled by two or four horses. They |
| bridge. Recently pedestrianized, the bridge has been in | | | | entered the ring at the start of the race via starting |
| constant use for over 2000 years. Repairs over the | | | | gates situated in a line at one end of the circus, very |
| years have been in keeping with the original style and | | | | similar to the start of a modern horse race today, and |
| the majority of it is original. It is one of the finest | | | | thundered around the central platform that was called |
| examples of Roman architecture in the peninsular. | | | | a spina. On occasion the entire circus could be flooded |
| Sixty arches carry the bridge across the river to the | | | | to enable re-enactments of naval battles. |
| south gate into the city. On the right of the gate are | | | | The huge amount of water required to flood the arena |
| the original walls. Those to the left have been | | | | would have come from the aqueduct that passes the |
| demolished. It is easy to imagine the legionnaires | | | | western end of the circus. This is the Acueducto de |
| breathing a sigh of relief after marching from Portugal | | | | San Lazaro and it is impossible to miss it. The arches |
| with their destination in sight. | | | | supporting the water channel march off for well over |
| Once in the city the choice of destinations is daunting. | | | | a kilometre towards the hills north of the city. Notice |
| To cover the Roman period a visit to the amphitheatre | | | | how at the circus end modern buildings abut the |
| and theatre is a must. The theatre is the best example | | | | aqueduct. There are not many houses with a finer |
| of its kind in western Europe. Next to the theatre is the | | | | arch at the end of the drive than the one here at |
| amphitheatre. Built in 8 BC it is also an excellent | | | | Merida. Recently excavated beneath the aqueduct is |
| example with many of the passages below the | | | | the site of a public baths area and a sports area, a |
| seating still in their original form. The pit in the floor was | | | | Roman desportivos. |
| where gladiators and wild animals were kept prior to | | | | Walking back into town you will next arrive at the |
| their 'performance'. Many people are confused by the | | | | Casa del Anfiteatro that is a whole site in its own right. |
| words theatre and amphitheatre, expecting the latter | | | | The south section of the aqueduct emerges here and |
| to be a semi circle and the former to be round. During | | | | there is a water tower with a house alongside. Inside |
| the early part of the Roman Empire gladiatorial games | | | | the house you will find some wonderful mosaics. |
| to the death and pitting man against beast were | | | | From there it is a short walk to the south end of town, |
| popular entertainments. These took place in the round | | | | near the bullring. You will come to a site called |
| amphitheatre. Later, during the Imperial period, plays and | | | | Columbarios, which is a Roman cemetery. Two of the |
| music became popular and for these purposes the | | | | vaults have been identified as belonging to the Julius |
| semi circular theatres were built. | | | | family and the Voconius family. The cemetery would |
| A visit to the Museum of Roman Art near the theatre | | | | have been situated outside the city walls as was |
| is also a must. Here you can see the usual glass, coins, | | | | customary at the time. The epigraphs and portraits |
| statues and other artefacts found during excavations | | | | have survived. Leaving the cemetery you will arrive at |
| but the two highlights are the fine mosaics, and the | | | | the Casa del Mitro. This was a large villa also situated |
| examples of Roman water technology. Some of the | | | | outside the city walls. Some wall decorations and |
| mosaics are huge and extremely well preserved. | | | | mosaics have survived along with the foundations, an |
| Romans were as class conscious as any other people | | | | extensive bath house and a huge underground water |
| and mosaics were used to impress friends and | | | | cistern. |
| neighbours. The smaller each individual tile in the mosaic | | | | To really take away an idea of what life was like |
| the more detail can be achieved with consequential | | | | around the 1st century AD then a visit to Moreria is |
| increases in cost. | | | | essential. This is a 12,000 square metre site behind the |
| It is the technology that really impresses. Huge bronze | | | | city wall alongside the river north of the Roman bridge. |
| valves used to isolate sections of water piping for | | | | Originally it was an urban area, the houses, large and |
| maintenance, valves to control the rate of flow of | | | | small are there to see, with a section of the east west |
| water and one-way valves. A detailed video, also | | | | main road through the town. It is easy to imagine this |
| available for sale, shows how the Romans understood | | | | bustling street with covered arcades on each side |
| and used water pressure to move water vertically as | | | | housing shops and taverns. Four minor roads lead off |
| well as horizontally. Given a few more years they | | | | and penetrate the city walls to give access to the |
| could easily have invented the steam engine. It is easy | | | | river. This site is particularly important for revealing a |
| to realise how the uneducated Visigoths, who replaced | | | | continuous history of occupation from Roman, through |
| the Romans, found the technology incomprehensible | | | | Visigoth to Moors and then Christians, each leaving |
| and thus failed to maintain it. | | | | their layer for us to find. |