| neglected in comparison to its well-know neighbour to | | | | Famously the setting of Lawrence Durrell’s |
| the south, North Cyprus has come into its own in | | | | novel, ‘Bitter Lemons of Cyprus’, the |
| recent years and now stands proudly as one of the | | | | village is a ‘must see’ for visitors. As is |
| most ‘up and coming’ Mediterranean | | | | the sea-front town of Kyrenia. With a castle and many |
| holiday destinations. The island’s history has | | | | delightful, bustling alleys, the heart of Kyrenia is its |
| seen it under the rule of most of the world’s | | | | ancient harbour, described by the Mail on Sunday as |
| powers; from the Romans, ancient Greeks and | | | | ‘one of the most beautiful places in the |
| Lusignans, to its more recent past as a British colony. In | | | | world’. Originally warehouses for carob and |
| the 1970’s, the island was subject to | | | | other of the island’s products, the water-side |
| international dispute again, culminating in an invasion by | | | | buildings are now home to a range of delightful |
| Turkish forces to protect the interests of their | | | | restaurants and shops. |
| compatriot Turkish Cypriots. The result was the | | | | There are so many more important sites that a good |
| ‘green line’. Under the control of the | | | | guidebook is as essential as good sun-cream! But |
| United Nations, this border separated the two parts of | | | | amongst all this history, there is a more lively side to |
| Cyprus and also effectively isolated the north, both | | | | North Cyprus too. Many hundreds of restaurants and |
| politically and economically. The island remains divided, | | | | tavernas can be found here. All at prices that delight |
| and of the world’s powers, only Turkey | | | | the wallet, whilst delighting the palette with a |
| technically recognises the state of North Cyprus. | | | | mouth-watering choice of local and international cuisine. |
| However, recent history has seen changes and it is | | | | The location also makes it ideal for the many |
| now possible for visitors and residents to freely cross | | | | operators offering watersports and diving. The |
| between the parts of the island. | | | | coastline, as with many similar places, is protected by |
| Regardless of the politics, the effect of this isolation is | | | | statute and items may not be taken from the ocean |
| a bonus to tourists. Whilst the recent relaxing of | | | | bed, but there are some challenging and scenic dives |
| restrictions has meant growth in development in many | | | | here. Indeed, the north coast was the site of the |
| areas, much of the country remains all but untouched | | | | world’s oldest recovered shipwreck. |
| by the hand of modern life. There are still many places | | | | Professionally lifted from the sea-bed some years ago, |
| where farmers use donkeys in preference to tractors | | | | the remains of the ship, and its cargo, can be found in |
| and there is a feeling that the 20th century, never mind | | | | Kyrenia’s castle museum. |
| the 21st, has had little impact. North Cyprus is also | | | | Despite its languid and old-fashioned aura, North |
| home to some of the most important archaeological | | | | Cyprus is definitely firmly in the 31st century when it |
| and historic sites in this part of the world. The remains | | | | comes to accommodation. The many hotels, of all |
| of Salamis, the capital of Cyprus in Roman times, | | | | sizes, and holiday villages here are all of a surprisingly |
| include a massive amphitheatre and other important | | | | high standard. Whilst there are a number of |
| remains. Though much remains to be excavated, the | | | | international style larger hotels, brimming with every |
| sheer scale of the site is breathtaking. Equally | | | | facility imaginable, there is much pleasure to be had in |
| breathtaking are the views from St Hilarion castle! An | | | | discovering some of the small ‘boutique’ |
| important ‘crusader’ castle, St Hilarion is | | | | hotels and family-run properties that form the majority |
| in a remarkable state of preservation and an abiding | | | | of the available tourist accommodation. Travel is simple |
| testament to the skill and fortitude of its builders. A | | | | too, with a number of airlines operating into Ercan, the |
| few miles away, in the peaceful mountainside village of | | | | island’s principal tourist airport. All in all, North |
| Bellapais, is the remarkable Bellapais Abbey. Dating | | | | Cyprus offers much for the Mediterranean visitor and |
| from the 13th century, this monument to an older | | | | now is the time to explore and enjoy, before the 21st |
| civilisation still exudes a palpable atmosphere of peace. | | | | century catches up. |