Visiting Rome - La Dolce Vita With Kids in Tow

American author Erica Jong once asked "What is theAnother fun place to take children to is Castel
fatal charm of Italy? What do we find there that canSant'Angelo. Reached by one of the world's most
be found nowhere else?" She then concluded that Italybeautiful bridges - Bernini's billowing, angel-clad Ponte
gives visitors "...a certain permission to be human, whichSant' Angelo - this strange, circular tank of a building
other places, other countries, lost long ago."was originally constructed as the mausoleum of
I wholeheartedly agree with Miss Jong. It is only when IEmperor Hadrian. Kids enjoy the wide circular ramp
am visiting my folks back in my home country that Ileading up to the different levels of the castle, looking
truly feel alive. Italy delights the eyes and heightens theat the nice views of the district from the different
senses. Whether it is the aroma of a freshly pouredterraces and visiting the museum inside which contains
espresso, the taste of exquisite porcini mushrooms orarmour and weaponry. The Castle Sant'Angelo Snack
the sound of distant church bells, you notice every oneBar is a great, casual eatery and a wonderful place to
of life's details when in Italy.break from a day of sightseeing. The food is good and
ROME AND CHILDRENthe view is stupendous.
Italians have always adored children and now that theThe Villa Borghese is Rome's sprawling central park
country is suffering from rapidly declining birth rates,and is a wonderful place to take children. It has
they do so even more. Wherever you go in Italy, yourpony-cart rides and rowboats you can rent and a zoo
children will receive a lot of attention and specialcalled the 'Bioparco' which is in the northeast section of
courtesy; an extra cherry on their ice cream here, athe park. The Bioparco houses about 900 animals
friendly 'Ciao!' there and many genuine, warm smiles.including the endangered black lemur, pygmy
Rome however may not be the ideal place to bringhippopotamus, Gila monster and painted hunting dog. At
children under six for numerous reasons. LooseVilla Borghese you will also find the Cinema dei Piccoli
cobblestones, narrow or no pavements, narrow(the Children's Cinema) that mainly shows cartoons
streets, crowds, traffic congestion, Vespas andand there's also a little fun fair.
bicycles darting around - all these difficulties makeOn Janiculum Hill (Gianicolo) during the summer months,
getting around Rome very challenging for thoseon every afternoon except for Wednesdays, there
pushing carriages or strollers, or even carrying orare traditional puppet shows that will totally amuse
walking small children.your little ones while at Villa Celimontana there's an
Also, many of the streets are still ancient cobblestone,open-air theatre performance in the summer months
which makes it quite a bumpy ride for sleeping babiesas well as bike trails to explore.
and also difficult to navigate with a pushchair. AnotherChildren are perhaps most amused if visiting Rome
problem is the lack of public restrooms and/orduring December and the Christmas holidays. Quite
changing areas in which to perform diaper-changingapart from the novelty of the colder weather, if you
duties. However children aged six and over will enjoyare travelling to Rome during the Christmas season,
visiting this eternal city just as much as their parents.there is the Befana Christmas Toy Fair in Piazza
ARRIVINGNavona and the awesome larger-than-life-sized
Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) airport is 26kmNativity at St. Peter's Square that is not to be missed.
southwest of Rome. One of the most convenientExplora is the name of the children's museum in Rome
ways to get into the city is by the Stazione Terminiand is a hands-on wonderland for kids 12 and under.
direct train, which runs hourly from the airport. A nightThe exhibits are in Italian, but kids probably won't care
bus runs to Stazione Tiburtina. If you're driving, anand all the helpful staff speak English anyway.
autostrada runs from the airport to the city - it's aThe Colosseum, or Flavian amphitheatre, is one of the
45-minute drive and will cost you a small fortune byfew remaining evidences of the glory of ancient
taxi.Rome, it's the largest amphitheatre ever built in Rome.
WHERE TO STAYThe name 'Colosseum' derives from the colossal
If you are visiting Rome with small children it is beststatue of Nero which once stood near the
that if you reserve accommodation in a hotelamphitheatre. Its monumental size and grandeur as
somewhere in the old centre that is about equalwell as its practical and efficient organization for
distance from any direction you wish to go. This wayproducing spectacles and controlling large crowds
you can go back to the hotel several times daily tomake it one of the great architectural monuments
freshen up the young ones, as well as yourself, andachieved by the ancient Romans. The Colosseum
perhaps take a siesta between sightseeing, shoppingwas designed to hold 50,000 spectators, and it had
or eating.approximately eighty entrances so crowds could
DRESSarrive and leave easily and quickly.
If you are accustomed to wearing shorts and t-shirts,One of the quirks about the Colusseum is that it is
especially when the weather is hot and humid you willhome to over 200 cats. They are not strays as such
soon find that Italians never dress this way. You willbecause they are cared for by a team of volunteers
feel under-dressed mostly everywhere you go inwho keep them well fed, happy and healthy. You will
Rome. The way you dress is very important in Italyfind that cats are omnipresent in Rome. They are so
and in Rome in particular - you will not be allowed inpopular that a regional law states that a group of more
most churches if you're dressed too casually. So don'tthan five cats in the natural urban habitat constitutes a
undergo the humiliation and frustration of being turnedprotected feline colony and they are trapped only for
away at St Peter's based on your attire. Wear longerthe purposes of sterilisation, to keep the feline
length shorts and t-shirts with sleeves.population under control, and then released.
TOILETSThe ghoulish Cappuccin Crypt (embellished with
Public toilets are as rare as hen's teeth. Try to timeskeletons) and the tunnels of the Catacombs will
your toilet stops with lunch and dinner and use thefascinate older children and you cannot leave Rome
facilities of a well-heeled bar or restaurant. If you'rewithout visiting the legendary Mouth of Truth, known
stuck there's many McDonald Restaurants in Romelocally as La Bocca della Verit£. The Mouth of
where you can have a toilet stop and an ice-cream!Truth may have been a Roman drain before it was
WHEN TO GOmoved to Santa Maria in Cosmedin's wall. It is said that
Italy is at its best in spring (April-May) and autumnthe hands of liars will be cut off if placed within the
(October-November). During these seasons, themouth (hence the name). To keep the superstition
scenery is beautiful, the temperatures are pleasant andalive, the caretaker-priest used to stick a scorpion in
there are relatively few crowds. Try to avoid August,the back of the mouth to sting the fingers of
as this is the time that most Italians take their annualsuspected fibbers. The Bocca made a cameo in the
holiday, and many shops and businesses are closed as1953 movie 'Roman Holiday'. During filming, Gregory
a result.Peck stuck his hand in the mouth and jokingly hid his
SIGHTSEEING WITH KIDShand in his sleeve when he yanked it out, causing
That it wasn't built in a day is quickly evident when youAudrey Hepburn to gasp in shock. The scene wasn't
start exploring the temples, residences, basilicas,scripted, but it worked so well that it was kept in the
churches, palazzi, piazze, parks, museums andmovie.
fountains!In the 1950s, movies like 'Three Coins in a Fountain'
One of the most enjoyable things to do with kids inepitomized the romance of Rome for a generation of
Rome is to climb to the top of St. Peter's Dome at theyoung people. Of course, the title referred to the Trevi
Vatican. The view from the top is spectacular andFountain, completed in 1762, which also stars in another
worth the trek. You must remember, however, thatclassic film, 'La Dolce Vita'. This Federico Fellini 1960's
this is a church and, as such, unnecessary noise isiconic movie showed Anita Ekberg bathing in the Trevi
strictly prohibited, especially while inside the Dome andFountain as an amused Marcello Mastroianni looked on.
basilica itself. Always be aware that if you takeLegend says that if you throw a coin into this fountain,
children into churches in Italy, they must remain quietyou will be assured a return to the Enternal City.
and reverent at all times or you will be asked to leaveRome truly is the home of La Dolce Vita (the sweet
very quickly.life), and while the city is a shadow of what it was in
As you walk from one sight to another, you will findthe fifties and early sixties, it still lives up well to its
that Rome's many squares are traffic-free, with plentydecadently romantic reputation.
of space for little ones to run and feed pigeons whileEven with children in tow, the romance of Rome in
Mum and Dad have a rest and enjoy a coffee at anparticular and of Italy in general is sure to find you.
outdoor table.Buon viaggio! Happy travels!